The Nepal and Sikkim tour

Sep 26 - Oct 13, 1992 (written on Mar 10, 2000)

Itinerary

Day 1: Sep 26

Got on a train at Chandigarh to Delhi/Ambala, having bought a ticket for Gorakhpur. Got off at Ambala or

Day 2: Sep 27

Got off at Gorakhpur at 6 in the morn. Took a rickshaw (three-wheeled engine-less contraption pedalled by a human, used as a taxi... very common in India) to the bus station. Noticed murtis (idols) being made for Durga Puja, an Indian festival. Took a bus to Bhairavha in Nepal. Crossed the border, changed currency (I remember the rate was 165 Nepal Rupees to 100 Indian ones) and found myself on a bus to Pokhara. Reached Pokhra in the evening.

Day 3: Sep 28

Around Pokhra. Conducted city-tour... remember eating at a yuck chinese place that served something called "Japanese chopsuey" that was anything but edible. Saw some caves, a high bridge and (hold your breath... this is true) a calf (young of a cow) being slaughtered (as sacrifice) at the Bindavasini Temple. This is a Hindu temple, and Nepal is a Hindu kingdom. Killing cows is a no-no. And that too in a temple? My guess was that people make all sorts of promises to the gods, and priests paid well, comply and keep their mouths shut. When I discussed this with my Nepali friends, they insisted that I must be mistaken. One said it may have been a buffalo. But I know my buffalos from my cows. Oh, if only I had taken a picture before the man hurried away with the sacrifice...actually, this was my first sight of sacrifices (some cocks were being sacrificed as well), and I watched dumbfounded. I collected my wits too late.

Day 4: Sep 29

Pokhra - Kathmandu

Day 5: Sep 30

In Kathmandu with Anjali Doda (maiden name Gogia)

Day 6: Oct 1

Avinash about to reach Kathmandu. I find his house with great difficulty. Move there.

Day 7: Oct 2

Above: At Swayambhunath, a gompa or chorten or stupa...clicked by Avinash. I remember seeing a memorable Chinese building on the way up, sitting behind Avinash on his Yamaha motorbike.

Around Kathmandu

Day 8: Oct 3

Ditto

Day 9: Oct 4

Ditto

Day 10: Oct 5

Ditto

Day 11: Oct 6

Take the bus to Kakerbhitta at night.

Day 12: Oct 7

Reach Kakerbhitta in the morning at 9. Swindled by a hoodwink. Reach Siliguri, book ticket back home thru a cheat (as all reservations are gone) and board a bus for Gangtok, Sikkim

Day 13: Oct 8

Around Gangtok. Saw Rumtek monastery (I think that's the name). Met Neki Kazi who lived next to "Doki Paan Shop". That's all I remember.

Day 14: Oct 9

Went to Chhangu, a high-altitude (12000 ft) lake. Awesome!

Day 15: Oct 10

Rafting. Jeeped back from the West Bengal border (Rangpo). Dinner at Neki's place. Great momos!

Days 16, 17, 18: Oct 11-13

Gangtok - Siliguri, West Bengal. Train back home. I realized I had no reservations (I had been cheated, remember?). The train was packed. Lotsa Army people. Next day was spent in the train. Reached Ambala at 12:30 AM on Oct 13. Caught bus to home. Remember the pleasant feeling when the conductor handed me the tickets while speaking Punjabi. For the first time, I felt the power of mother-tongue.