Heel and Toe
Wedauwoo is about 16 miles from Laramie, which makes for about a 20 minute
door to climbing time. In 1999, I also did the trip on bike a couple of times, which
involves about a 1500' elevation gain, and can be done on some pretty neat
trails south of the Interstate (the Windmill Trail). We climbed here a lot, and enjoyed it. Tape is pretty much a must,
since the rock is even rougher than at J-Tree, and large camming units are
also very, very useful. Heel and toe technique is also very handy, and I can
say the guidebook is appropriately named after it.
As customary, I worked my way up the grades. Here are some of the climbs
we did (or not).
- Foolishness (5.4) -- way harder, I backed off, as it was the first climb
of the trip
- Walt's Wall (5.4) -- good climb for this grade, the Left Exit (5.5) last
pitch is probably better than the regular route. Both climb a low angle
slab, but the regular route is not bolted
- Edwards Crack ** (5.7-) -- one of the classic climbs in the area, really
very good pro. I wasn't sure how to get past the final exit move (an
offwidth through a roof), but with a #4 Camalot placed in close
proximity, I could work out the move without getting too freaked.
- Jaquot's Face * (5.7) and Edwards Right Exit (5.5) -- an alternative
finish to the Edwards Crack offwidth. There is one more bolt on the face
than shown in the guidebook. The short Right Exit dihedral is nice, but
I didn't think my pro was totally bomber. We didn't do the Left Exit (5.4)
variation, which may be the easiest way to top out.
- Glen's Crack (5.4) -- awkward, not recommended
- Cornelius * (5.5) -- very nice finger crack on a slab. Got some good
practice in placing some of the smaller pieces, while using friction for
- EO Layback * (5.5) -- very nice. Stan led this, I think it was his first
trad lead, and actually pretty bold for a first lead (no ledges to stand
- EO Friction (5.5) -- "easy" friction. It didn't feel easy until I got to
the anchors. It had three bolts for 50 feet of climbing.
- Slat (5.7) -- good moves, but too short
- Stinkzieg *** (5.6) -- another area classic, has great variation of moves,
and all in all a great climb.
I backed off the first pitch, where I stupidly
tried to climb through an off-width chimney, after about 20 minutes
of thrashing, I didn't have it in me to do the balancy stemming move
required to get past that point (on the outside of the chimney).
Stan did do the move on lead,
finished the pitch and brought me up. After a small conference, he
decided he didn't want to keep leading. Lucky, lucky me. The second
pitch was one of the nicer ones in recent memory, a fist-size crack,
followed by a layback / hand crack. Bomber jams and bomber pro all the